The History of the Gucci Horsebit

An enduring accessory that has retained its timeless allure—the narrative of the Gucci Horsebit 1955 unfolds, turning the equestrian bit into an authentic emblem synonymous with the brand.

Timeless, practical and suitable for all occasions. A bag that over time has become a masterpiece for the fashion system and with its style has managed to act as a bridge between different eras with elegance and style. We are talking about the Horsebit 1955 by Gucci, the result of careful research into design, the excellence of materials and connotations linked to the badges of the Italian brand. Designed for the first time in '55, the bag is characterised by the double ring clamp, the so-called Gucci "horsebit" invented by Aldo Gucci - son of Guccio Gucci - who in the same decade decided to decontextualize the bit of the riding bridle to use it as an identifying symbol of the Italian brand. Over the years the clamp has taken on more and more importance until it reached its own dimension on garments, footwear and accessories of the Seventies, in particular it was used as a closing detail on bags and as an ornamental element on shoes and moccasins.

With changes in Gucci's creative direction, the horsebit took on different dimensions and interpretations during the Tom Ford era, while during the years of Alessandro Michele the Gucci Horsebit 1955 Bag took on more and more importance, capturing the attention of the entire fashion system. With the autumn winter 2023-24 fashion show presented by Studio Gucci (transition period between the creative direction of Michele and Sabato De Sarno) the Kering brand presented a revival of Horsebit Chain Bag, with the boldest version inspired by Tom Ford's 2000s.

After Sabato De Sarno 's debut with his first spring summer 2024 show presented during Milan Fashion Week in September, Gucci presented a new version of the Gucci Horsebit 1955 bag designed with asymmetric lines and made of Demetra, an animal free material that combines quality, softness and durability with certified cotton or certified hemp and ECONYL® (material obtained from fishing nets, carpets and pre-consumer waste). The shoulder bag with the rectangular clamp is renewed by taking on a more asymmetric, courageous and contemporary shape; just like Billie Eilish , American singer and long-time friend of the brand who has become the face of the advertising campaign. For the occasion, Gucci also presented a series of short films accompanied by his song "What Was I Made For?".

The last few years have seen a resurgence in archival designs from major design houses. Designers have chosen to dip into brand archives for inspiration, thus reviving both designs in their entirety as well as specific elements from the past. Alessandro Michele has taken the latter route with the introduction of Gucci’s new 1955 Horsebit collection. The first bag from the Horsebit line was introduced last fall and since then the line has been expanded to include bucket bags, and more recently totes and top handle shapes too. While the silhouettes and designs are original creations by Michele himself, the storytelling behind these bags is rooted in the concept of neoclassicism, which focuses on revitalizing the past. Michele’s 1955 Horsebit bags do just that, emblazoned with Gucci’s storied Horsebit hardware, but in a fresh, modern way. The Horsebit is a house icon that dates back to the 50s as its name states. The 1950s were a big decade for the house of Gucci. In 1951 Rodolfo Gucci, son of the house’s founder Guccio Gucci, opened the first Gucci store in Milan. It was around the same time that the house’s classic green-red-green web became synonymous with the brand. Two years later in 1953, the first American store opened on East 58th street in New York City. That same year saw the creation of the, now iconic, Horsebit. The Horsebit’s creation was based on details borrowed from the equestrian world. It joins two elements, a double ring and a bar, to create an instantly recognizable house code, which has since become a signature part of Gucci’s brand DNA. Though this detail has been reinvented with the introduction of the new Horsebit line, it was actually originally seen on a pair of loafers in 1953. Two years later, in 1955, the hardware was used on a handbag for the first time.

The shape and clean lines of the Gucci 1955 Horsebit Shoulder Bag were completely imagined by Michele himself. The line has been expanded to include multiple iterations of Horsebit bags including various shapes, sizes, fabrications and colors.